The Evolution of Navajo Silver Jewelry


Navajo Silversmiths are undoubtedly the most renown of all Native American jewelry Artisans


Navajo woman's hands with Navajo ringsFrom its humble beginnings to the present, Native American jewelry making has always been considered a unique art form. Of all the native American jewelry makers, the Navajo silversmiths are undeniably the most acclaimed. Their culturally distinctive work is sought after, coveted, and proudly worn by the fashionable elite throughout the world.

The original southwestern jewelry makers were the "plateros" or Mexican silversmiths, which in turn where highly influenced by the numerous Spanish settlers to northern Mexico. Sometime between the American Revolutionary War and the Civil War the Navajo began using silver to craft their jewelry. It is most commonly believed the necessary skills were taught to them by the "plateros". At first Navajo artisans worked with silver melted down from a variety of American and Mexican silver coins and ingots, which was the primary silver source available at that time. Initial Navajo silver jewelry work was hammered by hand and then finished with rudimentary filing, engraving and chiseling tools. These early pieces seem rather crude and are easily distinguishable from today's finely crafted products.

In time Navajo silNavajo coral braceletver jewelry makers learned "forging" and "tooling" techniques, thereby developing skills in that trade also. By the late eighteen hundreds, they began creating silver jewelry by the process of metal casting. This technique was accomplished by carving a design into a split piece of sandstone to produce a mold. Molten silver was then poured into the mold and allowed to cool. Once removed from the mold, a new and unique silver design emerged, which was in turn cleaned, polished and in many cased adorned with precious stones.

Passed on from father to son, and infused with culturally and religiously significant symbols and patterns, silversmithing evolved into a distinctive art form unique to the Navajo tribe. By the turn of the twentieth century Navajo silver jewelry was beginning to be noticed and prized beyond regional borders. However, the great depression saw a tremendous decline in demand for silver artwork and hand crafted jewelry. By the end of WWII silver crafts had dwindled to almost non-existent level. The trade was rescued and quickly rebounded when post war Federal educational programs began teaching the craft at various vocational schools established on Navajo lands.

navajo watchGreat artwork and quality craftsmanship will always rise to the top and so it was that the 1950s through present has seen an explosion in the popularity of Navajo jewelry. Coupled with the importance of tradition, but drawing on their creativity, Navajo silversmiths expanded the boundaries and scope of their craft by experimenting with new materials and techniques to produce original and innovative silver jewelry. With new tools and methods Navajo silver jewelry designs began to take on a more detailed and finished look.


Arguably, nothing has contributed to the meteoric rise in the popularity of Navajo silver jewelry as much as the use of natural stones and crystals. Indeed, Navajo silversmiths seem to have an inherent ability to select and insert gemstones that stunningly enhance the beauty of their sterling sliver designs. Of course turquoise is the most common gemstone used in Navajo jewelry. However, modern Navajo artisans are increasingly using a wide selection of other stones - either as accents with turquoise or by themselves. Malachite, onyx, lapis lazuli, agate, moonstone, fire opal, amethyst, jet, red coral, howlite, jasper, petrified wood, tiger-eye and mother of pearl are just a few of the natural materials that can readily be found adorning contemporary Navajo jewelry. With this wide pallet of colors with which to paint their bold and vibrant designs, is it any wonder that genuine Navajo silver works of art have evolved into one of the world's most desirable silver jewelry.

In the following video noted Navajo silversmith Darryl D. Begay demonstrates contemporary techniques used to create Native American artwork.







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